Seeing the local, bright-green fresh asparagus at the market makes my heart beat faster (and healthier). Pencil-slim or thick and sturdy, it’s all good.

After eating our fill of gently steamed and lightly salted spears, I look for swankier cooking methods and flavor additions. Roasting vegetables proves a perfect technique for medium-thick spears. Seasoning the spears before roasting with the salty, umami punch of white miso produces an awesome flavor.

Miso, that fermented, slightly salty soybean paste so integral to many Japanese recipes, comes in many flavors. Generally, the darker the color, the more intense the funky, salted flavor. Red and white misos are most commonly sold in the United States. Look for them in squeeze pouches on the shelves at Trader Joe’s or in the refrigerated section of Asian or large supermarkets. Miso keeps for many weeks in the refrigerator.

To season spring vegetables, such as asparagus and tender shell beans and peas. I prefer the mild-tasting, slightly sweet, white miso paste. This creamy paste can take the heat of roasting asparagus. It’s also great as a seasoning for sautéed vegetables — particularly beans and sweet peas.

Sliced, fresh shiitake mushroom caps likewise take readily to the sweetness of miso and contribute an interesting texture to roasted asparagus. A sprinkling of dark sesame oil and sesame seeds elevates this spring asparagus to center stage.

White miso flavors flageolet beans and buttery leeks in the second recipe. Pale, mint green flageolets are super popular in France with spring lamb; look for them in specialty stores or online from www.ranchogordo.com. When fresh shelled peas are available, swap them for the flageolets. For the ultimate convenience, use frozen lima beans or shelled edamame.

Remember when roasting or sauteeing, select a vegetable oil suitable for high-heat cooking. Read the labels; look for oils that specifically call out their high-heat cooking attributes. Options include expeller-pressed canola, sunflower oil, safflower oil, some avocado oils and grapeseed oil. Ordinary vegetable or canola oil can emit off-odors and flavors when overheated.

Miso-Roasted Asparagus with Shitake Mushrooms and Sesame

Makes 6 servings

Note: Always trim the tough ends off the asparagus spears; use a knife and cut the spears into a uniform length. Snapping the ends off could lead to unnecessary waste. Super fresh asparagus spears do not need to be peeled. Thick or woody spears should be lightly peeled to make them more tender after cooking.

1 container (4 ounces) fresh shitake

2 pounds medium-thick asparagus

1/4 cup vegetable oil for high-heat cooking, such as avocado oil, safflower, sunflower or expeller pressed canola oil

3 tablespoons white miso

1 teaspoon dark sesame oil

1 tablespoon white or black sesame seeds or a combination

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh chives or cilantro

1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Use a small paring knife to remove and discard shitake mushroom stems. Slice the caps into 1/3-inch wide pieces. You should have two loosely packed cups.

2 Use a knife to trim tough ends off of asparagus. Place on a rimmed baking sheet large enough to hold the asparagus in a single layer. Add sliced mushroom caps.

3. Mix oil and miso in a small bowl (it won’t be smooth). Spoon over asparagus, then toss to coat asparagus and mushrooms well on all sides.

4. Roast, turning asparagus once or twice, until fork-tender and nicely glazed, 6 to 8 minutes.

5. Arrange on a serving platter. Drizzle with sesame oil. Sprinkle with sesame seeds and herbs. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Flageolet Beans with Miso and Sauteed Leeks

Makes 6 servings

Note: Four cups of fresh spring peas or thawed, frozen lima beans or shelled edamame can be substituted for the dried beans; skip Step 1 and proceed with Step 2 of the recipe.

1/2 pound dried flageolet beans, rinsed

2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

3 to 4 bay leaves

1 teaspoon dried leaf thyme

Salt

2 small leeks

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter

1/2 red bell pepper, seeded, cut into 1/4-inch pieces

2 to 3 tablespoons white miso

2 cloves garlic, crushed

3 to 4 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as chives, basil, cilantro, parsley or a combination

1. Put dried beans into a large saucepan. Add cold water to cover beans by 2 inches. Add olive oil, onion, bay leaves and thyme. Heat to boil. Reduce to very low. Simmer beans, partly covered and adding water as needed, until tender, about 1 1/2 hours. Season to taste with salt, about 1 teaspoon. Simmer for 10 minutes. Let beans cool in their liquid. Refrigerate covered for up to several days.

2. Trim root ends off leeks. Trim off dark green tops and reserve for other uses such as soup or stock. Cut leeks lengthwise in half. Rinse under cool running water to remove any dirt. Drain well. Cut crosswise into 1/4-inch wide slices.

3. Strain cooked beans through a colander. (Bean cooking liquid can be reserved for use in vegetable soup if desired.) You’ll have about 4 cups of cooked beans.

4. To serve, heat a large, deep skillet over medium heat until hot. Add butter, sliced leeks and red pepper. Saute until vegetables are soft, 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in miso and garlic; cook 1 minute. Add drained beans. Cook and stir to heat the beans through, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt, usually 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon. Stir in chopped herbs. Serve hot or at room temperature.

(JeanMarie Brownson is a James Beard Award-winning author and the recipient of the IACP Cookbook Award for her latest cookbook, “Dinner at Home.” JeanMarie, a chef and authority on home cooking, Mexican cooking and specialty food, is one of the founding partners of Frontera Foods. She co-authored three cookbooks with chef Rick Bayless, including “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” JeanMarie has enjoyed developing recipes and writing about food, travel and dining for more than four decades.)

©2025 JeanMarie Brownson. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.